A Guide To Józsefváros, Budapest's Hipster District 8
Budapest’s hipster district, Józsefváros, is an underrated gem full of great food, hipster bars, historical sights and beautiful architecture. Here’s our guide to the 8th District, including what to see, eat and do.
We’ve lived on one of the busiest streets in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter (district 7) for almost a year now. At first, we loved its liveliness and the fact that there’s always something going; we were excited every time we left the house.
But after the initial excitement of residing on the street in the district wore off, we came to realise that the Jewish Quarter, at times, can also be a cesspit of rather average restaurants, tourist-trap bars, and clubs spilling over with decidedly average, laddish patrons on stag-dos or chanting football songs at 3am….
It was time to explore a little further afield, and discover some of Budapest’s nearby districts instead!
Just across the ever-busy Rákóczi Utca, we discovered Józsefváros, Budapest’s gritty, pretty 8th district; a personal discovery that to this day, fills us with joy.
Charmingly run-down in some parts, a little rough around the edges in others, the eclectic streets of this part of town are starting to burst with new life and a cool, creative vibe.
…
Home to some of Budapest’s finest Baroque streets and boulevards, the surprisingly good Hungarian National Museum, hipster cafes, a lively, local party scene, and perhaps the best hotel in Budapest, this once dilapidated district is seriously underrated by visitors to the city.
Józsefváros feels like it’s kind of our little secret (it’s really not!) a place where we go to escape the stag-do crowds of the 7th, to hang out with locals in the know.
But we’re willing to share it with you guys, because we know you’re the more responsible, culturally-interested and generally more discerning type of travellers - so enjoy our guide to the best things to do in Budapest’s district 8!
ps. Want to explore more of Budapest? Read our in-depth guides here | Szechenyi Baths, Gellert Thermal Baths, Szimpla Kert Ruin Bar, New York Cafe, Budapest’s best brunch spots.
THINGS TO DO IN BUDAPEST’S 8TH DISTRICT
WHERE EXACTLY IS JÓZSEFVÁROS?
As you may well know, Budapest is actually a city divided in two - Buda and Pest, split by the mighty Danube river.
On the west bank lies Buda, the oldest part of the city and home to many attractions, including Budapest Castle and Fishermans Bastion, and on the east bank lies Pest, home to St. Stephens Cathedral, Szechenyi Baths, and Jewish Quarter.
Józsefváros lies on the Pest side, bordering the 7th district to the north and the inner city (3rd and 5th districts) to the east.
It’s super easy to get to - it’s about a 15-minute walk from the city centre and all the major attractions, or a short metro ride to Astoria, Kálvin Tér, Blaha Luzja, or Rákóczi Tér, which are the starting points to any 8th district adventures.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT BUDAPEST?
Having lived in Budapest for over two years, we can safely say the shoulder seasons of May/June and September/October, are the best times to visit the city.
There are a few reasons for this;
#1 Budapest can get reallllllly busy during the peak summer months, so we recommend coming pre/post the peak season!
#2 The weather in the middle of summer can be a little stifling, so spring/autumn are much more comfortable
#3 It’s certainly cheaper to visit the city outside peak periods
#4 Did we mention the crowds in Summer?
The 8th District is no different, and the al fresco bars and general vibe are much, much better during the shoulder seasons.
WHAT TO SEE, DO AND EAT IN JÓZSEFVÁROS
WANDER THE PRETTY STREETS OF THE PALACE QUARTER
There’s a common theme to our daily wanderings in Budapest, and that’s the phrase “it’s just so beautiful”. We literally adore this city and its streets, and none more so than the Palace Quarter (Palotanegyed - good luck trying to pronounce that correctly!) of the 8th district.
The wide streets of the elegant Palace District are filled with decaying baroque masterpieces, complete with unique details, beautiful doors and decorative windows. These are the former mansions of wealthy nobility from the early 19th century, and their (now-faded) opulence is pretty breathtaking.
The starting point for exploring this district is Múzeum Utca, through leafy, quiet streets all the way up to the Grand Boulevard.
Some of our favourite streets are the Paris-esque Bródy Sándor utca, home to our favourite building in Budapest district 8; the Italian embassy (it’s bloody beautiful). Múzeum utca and Reviczky utca (near Ervin Szabo library), are two more streets filled with renovated baroque beauties which often blows our minds.
Finally, Vas Utca, with its super colourful facades, is perfect for an Instagram photo or two.
EXPLORE THE HUNGARIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM
Set in an attractive neo-classical building on Budapest’s Múzeum boulevard, the Hungarian National Museum is a must-visit for anyone looking to learn more about Hungary, and Budapest’s long and interesting history.
It’s from this iconic building that revolutionary youth declared their ideas for societal reforms and freedom from the reigning Habsburg Empire, sparking the 1848 Hungarian Revolution. The ensuing civil war ultimately ended in defeat but paved the way for Hungary’s mentality and modern culture.
The interior, especially the colourful and detailed stairways toward the second level and the central rotunda modelled after the Pantheon in Rome are definitely the most beautiful parts of the building, and worth a few snaps.
The museum itself is interesting enough, detailing Hungary’s rich history dating to back to the Jurassic Age through to the fall of the communist era. Starting in the basement, the museum covers the early history of the Carpathian Basin through to the arrival of the first Magyar tribes in the 9th century.
The second floor housed our favourite exhibitions, detailing the period from the 10th century to the end of Communism, including interesting sections WWII and the 1956 Hungarian Revolution. Our only complaint was that these exhibitions were considerably smaller than previous rooms, with the complex and significant 1956 revolution only a small corner of the room.
The exterior houses beautiful gardens which are the perfect place to sit in the sun during the warm summer months.
THE DETAILS
Where | Múzeum ucta, 14-16, Budapest
Opening hours | 10am - 6pm Tue - Sun
Cost | Entry is 1600 HUF per person
ADMIRE THE ORNATE ERVIN SZABÓ LIBRARY
Budapest is full of undiscovered gems; all you’ve gotta do is deviate slightly off the well-worn tourist path to find them. The opulent Ervin Szabó Library, located in the leafy southern end of the 8th, is one such gem.
Built in the late 1800s by a Hungarian aristocrat, Count Frigyes Wenckheim, Wenckheim Palace was one of the more stately homes in Budapest’s Palace district.
It was purchased by the city and converted into the Ervin Szabó Public Library in the early 1930s, and now allows visitors and users a sneak peek into the historical opulence of the city. Amongst the throng of (lucky) students deep in revision, the gilded roofs and magnificently carved wood panels of the old reading rooms and ballrooms are absolutely breathtaking.
Just remember that this is a working library, so keep the noise down or arrive early.
To visit Wenckheim Palace, you’ll need to buy an entrance ticket in the foyer (1,000 HUF/person), then make your way to level 4, before following the signs to the ballroom and reading room.
It’s worth noting that the rest of the library is just that, so beyond the palace, there’s not a lot to see and do, unless you’re keen to get your work / study on!
THE DETAILS
Where | Szabó Ervin tér 1
Opening hours | Mon - Fri 10am - 8pm, Sat 10am - 4pm
Cost | Entry fee of 1,000 HUF/person
LUMEN CAFE AND ART SPACE
Picture a cafe-cum-bar where Budapest’s hippest hang out, and you have Lumen Cafe.
Probably our favourite cafe in all of the 8th District, Lumen is located in a former chemical factory on Horánszky u. 5, the towering chimney in the courtyard testament to its industrious past.
Now, the industrial frames, glass-covered ceiling and ample greenery create the perfect atmosphere in which to enjoy coffee, brunch, lunch, craft beer, wine, or a good old fashioned spritzer. Or, all of the above (hey, you’re on holiday, right?!).
Brimming with creatives and students fuelled by excellent coffee (they roast their own coffee beans!), the atmosphere is always buzzing.
With a diverse and dynamic menu changing by the season the food is absolutely delicious; our faves include the homemade Hungarian noodles with ewe cheese and sun-dried tomatoes (a vegetarian take on a Hungarian classic dish), Quinoa fruit salad, the Lentil soup, and veggie Pad Thai.
Breakfast is also served; if you’re a meat-eater, you can’t go past the Hungarian breakfast which comes with Hungarian smoked sausage, ham and eggs. For veggies, pancakes are a must.
If you’re here from Monday to Friday, there are some serious good (and cheap) lunch specials which cater to both meat-eaters and vegetarians. Wash it all down with a local craft beer or Hungarian wine (seriously, NOM) and settle in for the afternoon.
In the front half of the building is a small-scale concert venue, which hosts concerts in the evening during the week and weekend. It’s eclectic, with Hungarian folk music, jazz and classical bands, and up-and-coming local bands playing their tunes.
THE DETAILS
Where | Lumen Cafe, Horánszky utca 5
Opening hours | Mon - Fri 8am - 12am, Sat - Sun 10am - 12am
Cost | $$
AFTERNOON DRINKS AND MIKSZÁTH KÁLMÁN TÉR
This quirky bohemian and student district of Budapest is often a step too far for most tourists, which is of benefit to those seeking a more relaxed, local affair when visiting Budapest.
The best place to enjoy a drink or ten with the local hipsters is at Mikszáth Square a pedestrianised square in the heart of Palotanegyed, the beautiful Palace Quarter of the 8th District.
Flanked by bars such as Kis Lumen (small Lumen), Kis Fecske Presszó and K9 bar, the terrace area is pumping during Budapest's warm summer evenings.
It’s probably our favourite place to sip Aperol Spritz or a local beer and watch the world go by while sitting amongst the romantic late 18th and 19th facades, while the lack of stag do’s and pub crawls means a far more relaxed and enjoyable environment.
Expect cheaper prices than the 7th district, too - an Aperol Spritz here will set you back around HUF1,600 (€5), while beer is often less than HUF700 (€1.50).
SEEK OUT AMAZING VINTAGE AND THRIFT STORES
Living in Budapest has turned us into thrift store fanatics - almost weekly we’ll set off to our favourite stores to see what vintage treasures or practical items we can discover.
While the Jewish Quarter of Budapest is teeming with awesome vintage and thrift stores, the exorbitant prices are a little prohibitive to those searching for a proper bargain, which is, after all, the main pretence of thrift shopping.
That’s why we tell anyone who’ll listen to pop over Rakoczi Utca and enter into the 8th district.
A mere shift in districts will drop prices by 10-20%, meaning a true bargain can be found, and the selection of clothes and goods is in many cases, better than the 7th.
We recommend visiting Typo Showroom on Krúdy Gyula utca, a hole-in-the-wall store with a hip selection of male and female second-hand vintage goods - think Burberry coats, Patagonia fleeces, and a brilliant selection of jeans. The goods can be a little pricey, but we’ve spotted so many bargains here if you’re willing to delve a little deeper into the selection.
Alternatively head to Gizmo Vintage in Somogyi Béla utca, a small store with a jungle theme that has a huge variety of women’s vintage goods.
EXPERIENCE A MARKET HALL WITHOUT THE CROWDS, RÁKÓCZI MARKET HALL
While most tourists head directly to the Great Market Hall for their Hungarian delicacies, locals in the know (or tourists, like you guys!) head to the beautiful Rakoczi market hall, located on the recently refurbished Rákóczi tér (square).
Built in 1897, the Rákóczi market hall closely resembles its more famous sister. Beautifully ornate, with tall wooden ceilings; if you’re into old-fashioned markets we definitely recommend visiting here.
On Saturdays, the market hall comes alive with colourful local vendors selling Hungarian fruits, vegetables, local cheese and meats, as well as a range of Hungarian must-eats, including the ubiquitous langos. You also must source yourself some Hungarian wine - it’s ridiculously good and virtually unknown through much of Europe and beyond.
For us, it’s the best place to grab all the Hungarian goodies without having to work your way through the maddening crowds of the Great Market Hall.
THE DETAILS
Where | Rákóczi tér 7-9
Opening hours | Mon - Friday 6am - 6pm, Sat 6am - 1pm, Sun closed
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN BUDAPEST’S 8TH DISTRICT
BRILLIANT COFFEE AT APRICOT
We love Apricot.
Located on the beautiful Bródy Sandor utca, the light and airy interior, and wonderful staff mean Apricot is our favourite coffee stop in the 8th District.
Roasted in Szentendre, the coffee here is tasty (always get a double shot - for some reason, we’ve found that coffee in Budapest is often weaker than you may be used to elsewhere), and they serve a wide array of tasty pastries (you should try the pistachio croissant!).
If coffee isn’t your drink of choice, there’s a huge selection of warm and cold drinks, including chai and tea. It’s the perfect caffeine stop before exploring more of Budapest's 8th district.
THE DETAILS
Where | Bródy Sándor u. 17
BOOZY EVENINGS AT HINTALÓ ISZODA
Located in the slowly gentrifying back streets of the 8th District, Hintaló Iszoda is one of those bars that immediately makes you feel at home; picture wooden floors and beams, vintage wallpaper and cosy armchairs with dimly lit lamps that give the impression you’re sharing a relaxed drink in someone’s living room.
Set up by Omar, a jovial Peruvian with Hungarian ancestry, this cosy, bohemian bar is complemented by a great selection of spirits and craft beer. Unsurprisingly, it’s one of our favourite bars in Budapest.
While the selection of craft beers is great, you can’t leave without trying one of the speciality cocktails, like the gin basil smash (super strong yet utterly delicious), or a long drink made with local Hungarian gin, which has a subtle purple colour with lavender notes.
Popular all nights of the week, Sunday afternoon is the time to visit, when the locals converge for a chilled Sunday session complete with downtempo tunes.
THE DETAILS
Where | Hintalo Iszoda, 15 Bacsó Béla utca
Cost | House beer - HUF450 for pint, G & T HUF720 - 1690, Wine HUF 290
CANDLELIT DINNER AT JELEN BISTRO
Jelen Bistro is our antidote to the commercial and seriously underwhelming restaurants of the Jewish Quarter.
Set in a large, open warehouse-type space off Blaha Luzja, Jelen is a bustling bar-cum-restaurant filled with candle-lit tables, eclectic corners and relaxed atmosphere.
Serving a wide selection of cuisine, we recommend mushroom risotto for vegetarians or pork medallions for meat-eaters.
There’s also a huge selection of beer, wine, and spirits which make it the perfect place to kick on post-feed before hitting up the citi’s more frivolous nightlife.
Just don’t expect great customer service (much like the rest of Budapest).
THE DETAILS
Where | Jelen Bistro, Blaha Lujza tér 1-2 (corner of Stáhly & Márkus Emília sarok)
Cost | $$
UPDATE | Jelen Bistro is now closed.
OTHER PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK IN THE 8TH
Vas Manci | Hole in the wall tapas bar with excellent food
OINOS Wine Bar Bistrot | Newly built upscale wine bar with very good food. Amazing decor, too
Krak’n Town | Craft beers and no 7th District crowds
Cafe Csiga | Longterm hipster hangout with decent food
Muki Cukrászda | Hungarian sweets and delicious coffee… need we say more
WHERE TO STAY IN DISTRICT 8, BUDAPEST
BEAUTIFUL BRODY HOUSE
Brody House is pretty much our dream hotel; homely, hipster, but without the pretentiousness of more renowned chains.
Set on leafy Sándor Brody Utca in Budapest’s 8th district, Brody House is easily missed; its unassuming but elegant neo-baroque facade hides the beautiful bohemian interior, with high ceilings, light-filled courtyards, art-covered walls and seriously unique rooms (the beds are super comfy!).
The communal areas are comfortable, with reading chairs and sofas, while the in-house boozer evokes a 1960’s dive bar - dimly lit, with elegant touches and a great place to mingle - it’s the type of place where you sit down for a sneaky Gin and Tonic, and end up staying for a cheeky whisky nightcap.
Fortunately, though, the rooms are super quiet, and you don’t hear any of the noise of Budapest or the bar. For those visiting the city, we always recommend a stay at Brody House.
THE DETAILS
Where | Bródy Sándor u. 10
Cost | £80+ per night
READ | Where to stay in Budapest
A MAP OF WHAT TO SEE, EAT AND DO IN JÓZSEFVÁROS
We’ve created a detailed map of the best places to visit in Budapest’s 8th district, Józsefváros, as well as where to eat, which you can download for your visit.
To save our map, click the star the right of the map title while will download the map to: your places - maps in your Google account.
Easy!
OUR BUDAPEST POCKET GUIDE
Our Budapest City Guide is a curated travel guide, designed to be downloaded to your phone and used as your trusty companion when exploring the city. In this comprehensive guide, you’ll find our personal recommendations on the best things to see, eat and drink, places to stay,and things to know, gathered over the two years we spent living in Budapest.
You’ll also find example itineraries to help you make the most of your time there, and plenty of inspiration to guide your travels.
BUY NOW | Purchase the pocket guide here
TRAVEL BETTER WITH THESE ESSENTIAL POSTS
BUDAPEST TRAVEL GUIDES | 25+ amazing things to do in Budapest, The best Ruin Bars in Budapest, Explore the best of Budapest’s Jewish Quarter, Józsefváros, Budapest’s hipster 8th district, the best brunch in Budapest, and Where to stay in Budapest
BUDAPEST ATTRACTIONS | A guide to Szechenyi Baths, the majestic Fisherman’s Bastion, Gellert Thermal Baths, New York Cafe, Szimpla Kert Ruin Bar, How to visit Dohany St Synagogue, A guide to St. Stephen’s Cathedral
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EXPLORE MISKOLC | Enjoy our short city break guide to Miskolc, explore the enchanting forest town of Lillafüred, or discover the Miskolctapolca Cave Baths
AIRBNB GUIDE | Our essential guide to getting the best out of Airbnb
TRAVEL INSURANCE | Don’t leave home without travel insurance (seriously, don’t!). Click here to get the best deals with World Nomads, our trusted travel insurance provider
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Wondering what gear we use to get all of our photos around the world?
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RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT.
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ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
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