Explore The Best Of Beautiful Balaton: Our 3-day Lake Balaton itinerary
Plan the ultimate getaway to Lake Balaton, Hungary’s favourite summer destination, with our three-day Balaton itinerary. Discover Balaton’s flourishing wine scene, best beaches, and the best things to eat, see, and do!
Ask any Hungarian what they’re planning to do on their weekends in summer, and one thing’s for sure: they’re going to Lake Balaton.
A summer trip to the shores of central Europe’s largest lake is an essential part of Hungarian life, and we’re a little ashamed to admit it took us almost 15 months of living here and a few 2020 travel restrictions to finally make it there ourselves.
From golden days by the water to getting acquainted with its beautiful wine country as the sun went down, exploring the lush green hills to discovering rustic Mediterranean-style villages straight out of the Mediterranean and a slow, considered appreciation for life in these parts, our late summer week spent here was glorious.
We’re now pretty passionate about encouraging travellers to move beyond Budapest’s limits and spend some time here slowing down, enjoying the beauty and discovering a whole new side to Hungary.
That said, we definitely understand that planning travels in Hungary can feel a daunting task; unfamiliar place names, an apprehension about language, and simply feeling a little overwhelmed by what to see and how to see it is partly why it took us so long to get there ourselves.
This 3-day northern Balaton itinerary aims to take some of the headaches out of some of your trip planning process, giving you all the essential travel information and a condensed version of our own week-long adventure there, while still allowing for plenty of spontaneity for your own trip. Exactly how all good adventures should play out!
Of course, there are plenty more things to see and do around Balaton (including the whole other side of the lake!) than what’s included in this itinerary - so if you have more time to explore, we’d definitely encourage you to dwell here longer and soak up all the good things.
THE ULTIMATE NORTH BALATON 3-DAY TRAVEL ITINERARY
WHERE IS LAKE BALATON?
If you’re like us, you’ve heard of Balaton, but actually had no idea where it is! Well, Lake Balaton is actually super close to Budapest - about an hour's drive southwest from downtown.
The largest lake in central Europe, Balaton is a firm weekend and summer getaway favourite amongst locals, partially due to its proximity to the nation’s capital. In next to no time, you can escape Budapest’s streets and find yourself wandering through vineyards and sipping wine with some of the country’s most spectacular views.
We’ve also included all your essential Balaton travel info (including how to get there) at the end of this post!
WHERE TO STAY IN BALATON
We’ve based this Balaton itinerary around the northern side of the lake because to be honest, we find it extremely beautiful and way more our vibe (slower, with a thriving gourmet/wine scene).
If you’re looking for more nightlife and partying, the southern shore of Balaton might be better suited.
We stayed just outside Balatonfüred at the beautiful Kőkövőn Vendégáz, and it’s one of our all-time fave Airbnb stays. The apartment was really lovely but it was the grounds won us over; a rustic barn draped in fairy lights, landscaped gardens with chill-out spaces, sweet grapevines and fig trees, and the loveliest hosts possible.
BOOK | Kőkövőn Vendégáz
Balatonfüred is a large enough town to get everything you need, including many major supermarkets, banks, petrol stations, as well as many restaurants and cafes. A lot of water-based activities start from here, too.
Alternatively, if you’re looking to immerse yourself in the wineries and restaurants of the region, we recommend opting for a base around the wine region of Badacsony.
It’s quieter, closer to wineries and restaurants, and a lot of nature-based activities, including hiking, biking, and the lake.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN NORTH BALATON
We’ve already written a guide to the very best things to do around north Balaton which you can read here, but in the meantime here are a few of the highlights we’ve included in this guide:
#1 Relax at a Balaton beach (Strand) | Obviously! Our personal fave was Balatonederics for a chilled out local vibe, but popular Csopak was also pretty decent.
#2 Explore the ancient streets of Tihany | Famous for its lavender, 11th-century Abbey and views over the impossibly blue lake, this historic town is worth spending a few hours in.
#3 Wander the ruins of Szigliget Castle | The (renovated) ruins of an ancient fortress that’s stood through invasions and the rise and falls of Empires. Plus breathtaking views over the Tapolca Basin
#4 Discover the wine scene in Badacsony | The rolling hills of Badacsony provide fertile grape-growing ground for Hungary’s exceptional wine scene. Hike or bike between wineries, sip wine, and enjoy world-class food!
#5 Explore Szent Gyorgy Hegy | Home to brilliant wineries and topped by the pretty little Lengyel Chapel. A great spot for sunsets and for the ‘Szent Gyorgy Hegy till midnight’ festival in the summer months.
#6 The town of Balatonfüred | From wandering the Tagore Promenade to the trendy restaurants and bars, Balatonfüred is Balaton’s northern ‘capital’ and definitely the place to see and be seen!
#7 The Festetics Palace at Keszthely | The 18th-century Baroque-style Festetics Palace is seriously impressive, while the elegantly manicured gardens are a delightful place for an afternoon wander.
#8 Eat all the food | From taco trucks to exclusive restaurants, Balaton is home to an exceptional array of eateries - our faves are all listed in this itinerary!
READ | Our ultimate guide to Lake Balaton’s north, including what to see, where to stay and eat, and more
OUR BALATON ROAD TRIP ITINERARY MAP
We've outlined our Balaton road trip route and itinerary in the map below.
To save our map, click the star the right of the map title while will download the map to: your places - maps in your Google account.
OUR 3-DAY BALATON ITINERARY
After a wonderful week spent exploring the northern shores of Balaton, we’ve picked out our favourite attractions, wineries and restaurants for this condensed 3-day Balaton itinerary.
This Balaton itinerary was created with a long-weekend getaway in mind, however, it's flexible and you can apply it to any time of the week.
Basically, it’s the itinerary we’d send to family, friends or followers who want to maximise seeing all the best spots and a few ‘offbeat’ attractions but who might be on a time budget too.
DAY #1 | EXPLORE AROUND BALATONFÜRED
10 AM - 1 PM | STROLL AROUND BALATONFÜRED
After arriving into Balatonfüred from Budapest, head down to the Tagore promenade (Tagore Sétány) to take in your first glimpse of Lake Balaton.
The tree-lined promenade is the place to see and be seen on Lake Balaton, and a stroll along the path is a must-do while you’re here. From here, Balatonfüred's cobblestoned streets lead to Gyógy Tér, the pretty town centre. Here, you can try the ‘healing water’ from Kossuth Lajos forrás, high in iron and suitably rotten in smell.
Follow Blaha Lujza utca, one of Balatonfüred’s most elegant and well-known streets, and grab a meal (and first wine of the trip!) at one of the many upmarket eateries and bars.
For a quick bite, we grabbed a breaky at Kedves Cukraszda and can recommend it, especially the range of sweet treats on offer.
1:30 PM - 3 PM | EXPLORE TIHANY
Once you’ve wandered around Balatonfüred, take route #71 to the historic town of Tihany, perched proudly atop the peninsula jutting into the lake.
You can’t miss the 11th-century Benedictine Abbey (Tihanyi Bencés Apátság: 1200Ft entry) the centre of town and of huge regional historical importance. There’s also a spectacular view from the Tihany promenade over Lake Balaton back towards Balatonfüred. We recommend grabbing a famous Tihany lavender ice-cream and enjoying it with the view of the turquoise waters and sail boats.
From here, make your way through the lavender-lined old town centre. Filled with historic homes from the 1600s, this is the place to grab a souvenir in the form of famous Tihany lavender products or pottery. We bought little jug from the House of Pottery which now takes pride of place on our mantlepiece.
Don’t forget to aimlessly wander too; all it takes to escape the maddening summer crowds are a few turns here and there off the main thoroughfare and you'll find yourself lost in a peaceful, charming world of yesteryear.
3:30 PM - 6 PM | GET ON THE WATER
If the weather is nice, which in summer it should be, head to one of the many strands (beaches) for a lazy afternoon in the sun. Or, if you’re up for it, book in a sailing tour — this is one of Europe’s best sailing destinations — and experience the lake from a different point of view. Sailing prices and more info here.
Just a short drive from Tihany, surrounded by the forests of the peninsula is the compact yet local Sajkodi Strand. Small, and more rudimentary than other fancy strands that dot the Balaton coastline, this beach is a natural paradise and the perfect place to relax and go for a swim.
You can hire paddleboards (SUP), kayaks and pedal boats from here, while it’s also a good place to take a walk through the forested paths which start here. It’s also an incredible place to watch the famous Balaton sunsets from.
7PM - 10 PM | WINE & DINE AT SZENT DONAT
Nestled in the hills above Csopak strand is Szent Donát Borkuria, one of the best-known wineries in the region. The elegant manor house is also home to Márga bistro, serving delicious locally sourced meals with outstanding views over Balaton.
Vegetarians beware - there’s not much on the menu here, but if you’re partial to meat the restaurant produces modern Hungarian fare paired with Szent Donát wines, all made on site.
Alternatively, for vegetarians: head to Balatonfüred and BazsaLicom restaurant, which serves a mix of modern Italian/Hungarian, with the mushroom and blue cheese with polenta a highlight.
DAY #2 | BEAUTIFUL BADACSONY (AND SURROUNDS)
9 AM - 10:30 AM | BREAKFAST AT VANKOS
After a relaxed morning, take route #71 from Balatonfüred to Badacsonytomaj (40 mins) for breakfast at Vankos, a French Provincial-style hotel and cafe serving the most delicious brunch in the region.
More than 100 years old, this rustic stone farmhouse has been renovated into a gorgeous guesthouse and cafe, with white and sage trimmings, little garden bistro tables, and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere to enjoy some morning sun and delicious food.
Sourced from local, organic providers in the area, the food is extremely tasty; we feasted on the shakshuka (honestly, one of the best we’ve ever had), and eggs florentine, topped off with coffee and orange juice. Prices are extremely reasonable, even for Hungary.
WHERE | Vankos, Badacsonyörs, Füredi u. 29
11 AM - 1 PM | SZIGLIGET CASTLE
If you’re anything like us, you’ll want to sit at Vankos all day, but there’s so much to see and do in the region you’ll have to get back on the road again. Follow route #71 west towards Keszthely, before turning left at the signs for Szigliget Castle, your next stop.
The medieval Szigliget Castle ( 1000 HUF pp, cash only) is an unmistakable feature of the landscape, standing over the lake and the fertile plains of Tapolca for more than 750 years.
The castle has been witness to numerous invasions, battles, and the rise and fall of empires, so you can’t miss strolling the rocky fortress, the castle chapel, or the weapons of the ages exhibition in the hall.
After visiting Szigliget, be sure to wander down past the car park for lunch at the Taco Truck, which serves incredibly good Mexican food, wine and beer. There are even vegan taco options — and they’re so good we went back two days in a row!
WHERE | Szigliget Castle
3 PM - 5 PM | THE FESTETICS PALACE IN KESZTHELY
After lunch, head towards Keszthely (back on Route #71), one of the largest towns on Lake Balaton and home to the Baroque masterpiece that is the Festetics Palace.
Construction on the palace commenced in 1745, and what stands today is reminiscent of the elegance of Versailles; a white-washed palace with grand ballrooms, ornate staircases, delicate details and expansive gardens.
Entry into the palace grounds is free, so take your time to stroll the vast property, and relax amongst the manicured gardens.
Alternatively, check out the Helikon Palace Museum (2300 HUF/ € 6.5), which showcases the incredible interior of the castle and the lifestyle of the gentry.
While you could easily spend hours here, it’s time for some wine in the Badacsony region.
WHERE | Festetics Palace, Pollack Mihály tér 3, Kezthely
5:30 PM - 7 PM | SKIZO WINE BAR FOR DRINKS
Head east on route #71 and follow the highway until just after Szigliget castle, turning left onto Debreczenyi Gyula Utca and into the quaint town of Badacsonytördemic.
Nestled in the foothills of the flat-top Badacsony hill, Badacsonytördemic is our favourite village in Balaton. Cobblestone streets and historic farmhouses give it a very Mediterranean vibe, and we’d be lying if we said we hadn’t looked at a few fixer-upper properties online after we left!
But we digress; once you’re in Badacsonytördemic, it’s the wine bar of Skizo that's your final destination.
Set in an old traditional house with a peaceful front terrace, this trendy little blink-and-you’ll-miss-it wine bar is the perfect place to sample some brilliant wine, nibble on tasty finger food, and soak up some sun.
We recommend both their offerings of rosé, and the delicious (and addictive) lavender, berry, and soda cocktail with Sauvignon blanc or rosé. Again, a little reminder to those driving that the alcohol limit here is zero…. so choose who’s driving verrrry wisely!
WHERE | Skizo Wine Bar, Badacsonytördemic, Szent István u. 24
7:30 PM - 9PM | DINNER AT NEKED FOZTEM
Your final stop for today is dinner at the incredible Neked Foztem, located in the picturesque village of Zánka. Follow route #71 towards Balatonfüred, turning left onto Rákóczi U. in the town of Zánka. Follow the road for a few minutes before arriving at the centre of the old town.
Overlooking vineyards at the foot of a historic church, Neked Foztem has a beautiful terrace upon which you can enjoy a slow, considered dinner, paired with local wines.
The food is excellent, with fresh locally sourced ingredients and a traditional Hungarian kitchen approach.
You must finish off the evening with their signature sweet dumplings for dessert - they’re to die for!
WHERE | Neked Foztem, Zánka, Fő u. 7
DAY #3 | MARKETS, BEACH AND FOOD
9AM - 11:30PM | LILIOMKERT (LILY GARDEN MARKET)
A visit to Lilliomkert, the outrageously popular farmers market and bazaar located in the small town of Káptalantóti, is essential to any Balaton itinerary. Follow route #71 from Balatonfüred to Badacsonytomaj before turning right and onto Fo Utca and heading towards Káptalantóti.
Once in town, turn right onto Petofi u. and you’ll arrive at the markets. You can’t miss it - it's a hive of activity from start to end!
With a focus on local, sustainable and organic produce, Liliomkert features an eclectic mix of food, flowers, antiques, handmade and crafted goods, and dotted with musicians and performers.
Attracting everyone from hipsters to grandmas, the markets occur every weekend (but are most popular on Sundays). the rustic marketplace is abuzz, and one of the best things to do in the area.
Grab yourself breakfast from one of the many local bakers and chefs, or enjoy some traditional Hungarian cuisine from one of the many pop up food stalls. Seek out a bargain or two, whether it be handmade olive oil soaps or a fresh bottle of naturally produced wine before settling under the trees to listen to a local performer.
Honestly, we could've easily spent all day here, but we recommend moving on for wine and cheese… need we say more.
WHERE | Liliomkerti Piac, Káptalantóti, Petofi utca 13
12 PM - 2:30 PM | CHEESE & WINE AT LAPOSA BIRTOK
Heading back towards Badacsonytomaj will take you to your next stop, Laposa Birtok.
The Badacsony wine region is famous throughout Hungary for producing incredibly good white and rosé varieties, and Laposa Birtok winery and cellar door is our choice for sampling some of the finest drops.
Nestled between lush green vines to one side and a breathtaking panoramic view over vineyards and Lake Balaton to the other, this is the place to spend a summer day soaking up the scenery, sipping crisp rosé wine and snacking on a local cheese platter served with fresh-baked warm bread and thick, rich olive oil.
What’s more, the staff are some of the most attentive and knowledgeable we’ve experienced in Hungary, so it really is an incredible experience.
WHERE | Laposa Birtok, Badacsonytomaj
3 PM - 6 PM | AFTERNOON SWIM AT BALATONEDERICS
Quiet, picturesque and with views across to Badacsony, Balatonederics strand (entry 500 HUF) is our pick of Balaton's strands/beaches on a lazy summer afternoon.
Nestled in a secluded corner of the lake, flanked by tall reeds bordering the wide, well-maintained beach, Balatonederics is the perfect place to set your towel down under dappled shade, grab your book and relax for the afternoon. It’s quiet and had a much calmer, peaceful vibe than other strands we visited.
If relaxing isn’t your thing (Mark can’t sit still, so you’re not alone!), swim out to the platform and lap up the sun (or practice your diving skills), or hire a SUP (stand up paddleboard) and paddle inquisitively around the shoreline.
As with most strands on Balaton, the facilities are great - large change rooms, lakeside showers, a range of watersport equipment for hire, and of course an obligatory ice cream stand. Located on the road towards Keszthely (route #71), it’s also easy to find.
WHERE | Balatonederics Strand
6:30 PM - 8 PM | SUNSET AT LENGYEL CHAPEL + WALK AROUND SZENT GYÖRGY HEGY
Sunsets in Balaton are sacred, so we suggest you join in-the-know locals and head towards the picturesque wineries of Szent György Hegy (St George Hill) to watch nature’s light show.
Get there early and take a walk around the stunning Lengyel Kapola (Lengyel Chapel), which is flanked by rows of lush grapevines and one of the prettiest sights in Balaton.
Built in 1760 by the Toti Lengyel family, the prominent and wealthy landholding Barons of the time, the chapel’s sunshiny yellow facade stands out from the lines of green surrounding it, beckoning visitors from miles away.
Take a walk through the surrounding vineyards and cellar doors, and admire what is, for us, one of the most beautiful views in Hungary - it’s just magical up here.
The Taranyi Cellar next door is also a great spot to relax and grab a bite to eat while watching the sun go down.
WHERE | Lengyel Chapel, Hegymagas
8:15 PM - 10 PM | DINNER AT SZASZI BIRTOK
A short walk down the road is Saszi Birtok, an incredible restaurant, winery and cellar door with perhaps the best views in Balaton.
This family-run, organic and eco-friendly business focuses on quality seasonal and locally-sourced ingredients. Scattered with olive trees and blooms and looking out over one of Balaton's best sunset views, the Szaszi Birtok terrace feels like you’ve slipped straight into a dream and landed somewhere on the Med — a thought echoed by one of our (amazing!) waiters, who commented that this was “our Provence”
While the menu offering is small, the food is delicious and definitely suits the atmosphere of the place. Wine is also expertly matched to each course, adding to the experience.
Enjoy the cicada song and soft late-summer breeze while fishing off the last tasty morsels of food from your plates, before finishing with a delicious dessert.
WHERE | Szaszi Birtok, Hegymagas
LAKE BALATON ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION
THE BEST TIME TO VISIT LAKE BALATON
The best time to visit lake Balaton is in late spring (late May - June) or early autumn (September).
Most Hungarians take their summer holidays in August, meaning Balaton and its surrounds are jam-packed. The best attractions, wineries, restaurants, bars, beaches and accommodation are likely to be booked, and it can be quite crowded during this time.
In late spring (June), the weather is warming and the surrounding fields covered with wildflowers. It’s also peak lavender season, with many parts of the landscape are covered in a sea of purple. It’s completely magical. There are far fewer people about, and there’s an almost serene feel to the place.
In early Autumn, summer’s crowds have drifted away yet there’s still that warmth in the air. The water is warmer and more comfortable for swimming, and the vibe is a little more relaxed.
Accommodation prices tend to be lower, too. Late autumn, although cooler, is grape harvest time and the vineyards become picturesque, turning all shades of orange and yellow.
HOW TO GET TO LAKE BALATON
To get from Budapest to Balaton by car is super easy; the M7 motorway connects the two and allows for a quick trip of just over an hour to the southern shore of the lake.
While there are decent transport links (more on these below), we hired a car which was definitely the best option for us - and a few of the places on this itinerary will only be accessible via car.
GETTING TO BALATON BY CAR
The motorway leads directly to the south shore of Balaton, so to get to the northern shores you’ll need to take the Route 71 exit which weaves through all the major towns on the northern side to Keszthely.
An alternative route is via the M7 Motorway to Székesferhérvár, taking the exit onto Route 8 which circles the city. From here, follow the route until Veszprém, before following Route 73 into Csopak and Balatonfüred.
Traffic between Budapest and Balaton can be notoriously busy on Friday and Sunday afternoons during summer - so factor this into your travel planning!
NOTE | There’s a zero-tolerance alcohol policy when it comes to driving in Hungary, so if you’re the designated driver, unfortunately, it’s soda water for you at the wineries that day!
RENTING A CAR IN HUNGARY
We rented a car for a week from downtown Budapest through Rentalcars.com, which cost just under 35,000 HUF/€100 excluding insurance.
You’ll need a highway permit (“matrica” in Hungarian) to use the motorways here. These are ~ €12 for 10 days (standard cars) and can be obtained at petrol stations or when collecting your rental.
More information here.
Car Insurance | We have an annual global car hire insurance plan through Insurance4CarHire, which you should definitely consider if you hire cars on your travels often.
GETTING TO LAKE BALATON BY TRAIN
Direct trains service the Budapest (Déli Station) to Balatonfüred route every hour, alternating between slow and fast services. The fastest train is the Kék Hullám (Blue Wave), which takes 2-hours station-to-station and costs 2,725 HUF/€7.50 one way. This train departs every two hours between 7am - 7pm.
Alternatively, there are slower trains which depart at different times - check the timetables here.
You can get to Déli Station via Metro line M2. If you’re planning on bringing your bike (biking is super popular here), you can for a small fee. For information and timetables click here.
GETTING TO LAKE BALATON BY BUS
Another Budapest to Lake Balaton (Balatonfüred) transport option is to take the bus.
Buses leave throughout the day from Népliget Station in the south of Budapest, easily accessible by metro line M3. Buses take between 2-3 hours and cost 2,725 HUF/€7.50 one way.
Click here for more information.
THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING LAKE BALATON
Visiting Lake Balaton for the first time, we discovered a wondrous land but one with many quirks. Here are a few handy things to know before visiting Lake Balaton:
Google maps will be your best friend! The lake is huge, so travel times can often be longer than imagined
The legal alcohol limit when driving is 0.0 - keep that in mind when sampling wines
Vegetarian and Vegan food is very hard to come by. Normally, there’s only one option on the menu (fried cheese with rice), however in larger towns like Balatonfüred you should have more luck
Restaurant kitchens tend to close at 9pm, so keep that in mind during the long summer evenings (we were caught out a few times and had to eat bread and cheese for dinner!)
Strands are private beachside areas dotted around the whole lake. You must pay to enter (between 500 HUF - 900 HUF), but they have great facilities and are the best place to bathe/sunbathe
A massive generalisation we know, but some of the driving around these parts leaves a lot to be desired, so just be careful on the roads
Balaton is a huge cycling destination, so if you’d prefer to jump on a bike and explore the wineries, hire one from your accommodation or rental stores
Outside of peak season, Monday - Wednesday can be very quiet and many wineries and restaurants are shut. Do your research and plan accordingly
TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR HUNGARY
We firmly believe that if you can't afford travel insurance, you really can't afford to travel. As the current pandemic has taught many; things can go wrong anywhere in the world and insurance is often the only way of mitigating any issues with minimal expense or stress for you.
For all travellers | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out of pocket fees. *Get 5% off your policy by booking through our link here.
For digital nomads | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.
Car Insurance | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
*In normal times, we recommend using World Nomads travel insurance, but unfortunately they're not currently covering COVID-19 related claims.
READ | Our ultimate guide to travel insurance
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BUDAPEST TRAVEL GUIDES | Explore the best of Józsefváros, Budapest’s hipster 8th district
AIRBNB GUIDE | Our essential guide to getting the best out of Airbnb
TRAVEL INSURANCE | Don’t leave home without travel insurance (seriously, don’t!). Click here to get the best deals with World Nomads, our trusted travel insurance provider
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Wondering what gear we use to get all of our photos around the world?
Click here to view our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT.
Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and friends travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
EXPLORE HUNGARY WITH OUR IN-DEPTH GUIDES
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