How To Visit My Son Sanctuary, Vietnam’s Most Impressive Ancient Ruins
Here’s how to visit My Son Sanctuary, an easy day trip from Hoi An. Explore the best times to visit, what to see, and tips for enjoying your time at the UNESCO-protected ancient ruins
“Old Cham people have put their spirit into stone and soil. They were able to create a grandeur and sacred My Son on the basis of nature. This is a priceless museum of architecture and sculpture of humanity that would take a long time for us to fully grasp”
- Kazimierz Kwiatkowski
It’s always an eye-opening experience to visit a place that’s withstood the rise and (often violent) fall of ancient kingdoms, the weathering of time and neglect, and the creeping of the natural world, only to be finally destroyed by mankind’s anger in the last century.
That’s exactly what happened to the ancient Cham Kingdom of Mỹ Sơn, in Vietnam’s Quang Nom province.
Often referred to as the Angkor Wat of Vietnam, you’ll find the deep ochre ruins of My Son similarly enshrouded in thick jungle — although arguably that’s where its resemblance to its more famous counterpart ends.
Once the spiritual and political heartland of one of Southeast Asia’s most significant empires, more than 70 Hindu temples built between the 4th and 15th centuries once stood scattered amongst the lush jungle surrounds, their intricate carvings and architecture an important insight into Vietnam’s oft-overlooked ancient history.
That is, until US carpet bombing raids deliberately and almost entirely reduced more than two-thirds of the site to rubble over just a few days during the Vietnam War in 1969.
What little that remained when the smoke settled was gradually reclaimed by the surrounding jungle over the following decades, until combined international efforts led by Polish conservationist and architect, Kazimierz Kwiatkowski, saw My Son Sanctuary receive UNESCO World Heritage protection in 1999.
Since then, restoration efforts have rebuilt some of the main highlights in painstaking detail, and it certainly makes for a more appealing visit today (Mark visited 10 years ago and was shocked at the progress that had been made since!).
An easy half-day trip from both charming Hoi An and the modern beach metropolis of Da Nang — and without the heaving crowds found at the better-known ruins across the border — you could spend your morning diving in Vietnam’s ancient history and be back on the beach or enjoying a coconut coffee in Hoi An’s lantern-filled streets by the afternoon.
In this short guide to My Son, we’ve shared all the information you need to visit the complex, including whether to take a guided tour or visit independently, how to get there, what to know before visiting, and what to see when you’re there. If you’re planning to visit, this is the essential guide for you!
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MY SON SANCTUARY SNAPSHOT
WHERE | My Son Sanctuary, 45 mins from Hoi An
HOW TO GET THERE | Join a tour, take a shuttle, or private transfer from Hoi An
COST | 150,000 VND for adults and 30,000 VND for children aged 5 - 15. Younger kids enter for free
OPENING HOURS | Daily, from 6 am to 5 pm
TOURS | Book this excellent guided tour of My Son Sanctuary
WHERE IS MY SON SANCTUARY, AND HOW TO GET TO THERE
Set in a lush valley surrounded by jungle-covered mountains, My Son Sanctuary is located in the Quang Nam Province in Central Vietnam, about 40 km southwest of Hoi An.
Before diving into what to see and do at My Son, we think it’s important to run through how to get there, as there are a myriad of options, and which you choose will define your experience.
Below are four options:
DAY TOUR
Spend a day in Hoi An and it’s likely you’ll be offered a tour of My Son more than once. The most popular day trip from town, every single tour agency & Grab driver aims to secure your business. It can get a little annoying at times but shows the popularity of the tour, so we therefore suggest booking a tour in advance - it’s an easy “no, we’ve already booked our tour” reply to the touts.
This guided tour is highly recommended as it arrives at My Son Sanctuary early in the day (600k VND - 6:30 am), giving you the whole place to yourself. We can’t overestimate how important it is to arrive early to the site - not only do you avoid the hordes of tourists that descend on the site around 10 am, but you’ll also miss the searing Vietnamese heat which can be a little overwhelming.
In addition, having a local guide to walk you through the site and explain its history and importance is wonderful - there’s a lot to take in, but the distilled and informal history lesson from your guide makes it much easier to understand.
The small-group tour also features a pit stop for morning noodles + coffee and hotel pick-up and drop-off.
BOOK | This excellent guided tour of My Son Sanctuary
MY SON SHUTTLE FROM HOI AN & DA NANG
If you want to explore the site independently but without booking a private car or jumping on a scooter, another great (and way more affordable!) option is to book a space on the shared shuttle buses that run from Hoi An - My Son and Da Nang to Hoi An.
Note that you do need to book the shuttle ahead of time (book it here) to avoid missing out.
A rough schedule (as at the time of writing, May 2024) is as follows:
HOI AN - MY SON
8:00 am | Depart Hoi An
9:15 am | Arrive at My Son Sanctuary
12:00 pm | Transfer back to Hoi An
1:00-1:30 pm | Drop off in Hoi An
DANANG TO MY SON
8.00 am | Depart Da Nang
9:15 am | Arrive at My Son Sanctuary
12:00pm | Transfer back to Da Nang
1:00- 1:30pm: Drop off in Da Nang
BOOK |This shared shuttle bus to My Son Sanctuary
PRIVATE CAR OR TAXI
Not keen on a group tour? Travelling with kids? Or want to see My Son Sanctuary at your own pace? A private car or taxi could be the perfect option.
Although not the most cost-effective option (private transfers cost around 750,000 VND ($30 USD)), having your own driver allows for greater freedom, including seeing other tourist attractions within the region (Marble Mountains, Danang, or even up to Hue). It’s also quicker, taking 45 mins to get there from Hoi An.
Private cars can be arranged by your hotel, or through your Grab driver (they all offer their tour services!), but be sure to negotiate your fee in advance.
You can also arrange your own private guide once at My Son Sanctuary (we believe these are around 500,000 VND).
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
Riding a scooter in SE Asia is fraught with danger, mostly because you’ll likely be uninsured, and the roads/driving conditions can be a little hazardous, therefore we only suggest hiring a scooter for experienced riders, or those with insurance.
That being said, a scooter offers incredible freedom, especially if travelling alone. Like the look of a street food restaurant? Stop and eat. See the most incredible view? Park and take a photo.
Through rice fields, over bridges, and deep into the jungle, riding to My Son is a wonderful picturesque way to get to the Sanctuary. The route is well signposted, and in addition, you can arrive before the tour busses arrive, and spend as much time as you wish at the ruins.
You can rent a scooter in Hoi An for around 150,000 VND, and even with a full tank of fuel, it’s by far the most cost-effective option.
Just be careful.
HISTORY OF MY SON SANCTUARY
It's the 4th century, and the influential maritime empire of the Champa Kingdom is beginning to flourish in Central Vietnam, setting the foundations for what would become one of the most significant religious sites in Southeast Asia. The first temples were constructed under King Bhadravarman for worship and were dedicated mostly to Shiva, whom the Cham people revered as the protector of their kings.
Fast forward to the 7th to the 13th centuries, the golden era of My Son. The sanctuary expands, now boasting over 70 structures dedicated to Hindu deities like Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma.
Unlike other famous ancient structures in Southeast Asia made from stone, such as Angkor Wat in Cambodia or Borobudur in Indonesia, these Champa temples were built from bricks. Using an ingenious way of using bricks and invisible mortar to build its structures, the temples were built layer by layer (this technique is still not fully understood by current-day engineers)
This period of calm and growth for My Son was not to last. In the 15th century, Vietnam's history took a turbulent turn with the fall of the Champa Kingdom to the Vietnamese people, which led to the abandonment of the sanctuary. Centuries passed, and the jungle reclaimed its lost territory, shrouding the temples in mystery.
In the 19th century, the French archaeologist, Henri Parmentier rediscovered the site in 1898, and by the 1930s, the temples had been mostly reconstructed.
Unfortunately, the sanctuary's trials weren't over yet. Fast forward to the Vietnam War in the 20th century, when the Viet Cong used the site as a base for operations. The historic site again found itself in the midst of conflict, suffering significant damage due to extensive carpet bombing by the Americans - you can still see the bomb craters throughout the site.
However, a Polish legend named Kazimierz Kwiatkowski (read more on him here) made it his mission to save the site (and Hoi An, incidentally), fighting hard to restore and protect the ruins. Thankfully, what you see today is thanks to him.
WHAT TO SEE AT MY SON SANCTUARY
It’s pretty obvious what you’ll see at My Son Sanctuary - ancient ruins and lots of them. There are 70+ remaining temples, which are set out in a rather unique fashion, by groups, or blocks, each featuring a cluster of ruins.
Below is an overview of the groups, and what to expect:
GROUP A
When Mark first visited My Son in 2012, Group A was just a pile of ochre-coloured ruins slowly being eaten up by the jungle. What was once an epic set of temples, the area was flattened by American B-52s in 1969 and has lay in rubble ever since. Thankfully, a collaborative archaeological restoration program has started to restore the site to its former glory.
The centrepiece is the partially restored A1 Temple, previously a monumental 28m high structure built in the 10th century. It was the only temple in the complex with two main doors opened to the East and West and surrounded by six small temples dedicated to directional gods (dikpalakas). Today, the main base structure remains, providing an insight into how grand the structure would have been.
Smaller surrounding structures such as A10, and A13 provide another interesting insight into Champa architecture.
GROUP B – C – D
The largest concentration of temples at My Son, with 27 in total, Group B, C & D are the main cluster of temples within the complex.
With temples ranging in date from the 10th to the 12th century, here is where you’ll find the best and most intact ruins in the whole of My Son. Dedicated to Bhadreshvara, an incarnation of Shiva who was revered as the God of the Champa Kingdom, the architecture showcases the intricate brickwork and sandstone carvings, with motifs depicting Hindu mythology.
Group B features a number of important structures, including our personal favourite, B5, which was used for cooking food offerings for the deities. Featuring beautiful external carvings and sculptures, it’s reminiscent of temples in Cambodia’a Angkor Wat complex, and the best preserved in the whole site. It’s also a favourite of tour guides to get group photos, so get there early to avoid the crowds.
In the Group C cluster, the most impressive (and popular) building in the complex is C1, a tall, mostly intact structure featuring stunning bas-reliefs and sculptures, similar to the aforementioned B5.
There are also a number of smaller temples (D1 & D2) which have been covered over, and now house a range of sculptures and artefacts from the surrounding temples.
We suggest spending the most time in this group, as it’s by far the most impressive and intact within the entire My Son complex.
GROUP E – F – G
While Group E, F & G are smaller and less impressive than Group C, C & D, we actually found the ruins here more accessible, and with fewer tourists, more enjoyable to explore.
Group E is distinguished by its stunning main temple (E1) dedicated to Shiva, a mostly restored temple from the 8th century that has an opening in which to explore inside. The group’s other main attractions include its impressive pedestal, altar and an intricate carving of the sacred bull Nandi, which are dotted throughout the surrounding area.
Adjacent to Group E, Group F features structures that were primarily dedicated to the worship of Hindu gods. Unfortunately, the main temple, F1, is covered and lies in ruins (although it is being reconstructed), and despite the ravages of time and historical conflicts, there are still remnants of carvings and motifs on show.
Set on a small hill adjacent to Group B, C & D, Group G was another personal favourite of ours. Although smaller and more eroded than some of the other temple clusters, this group contains several sub-temples/ auxiliary buildings possibly used for storage, administration, or smaller ceremonies. The main temple, G1, is highly accessible with its unique three-door design and features some very detailed reliefs at its base.
GROUP H & K
Group H & K are each a small cluster or ruins that are simple in design and construction, and a cool little stop if you’re not too templed out.
THE MY SON AND CHAMPA MUSEUM
Champa history is long and interesting, and My Son’s onsite museum offers the perfect place to learn a little more about the history, culture and architecture of the site.
The museum houses an array of artefacts that have been preserved and displayed to narrate the story of the Cham people and their Hindu beliefs. Exhibits include an impressive collection of sculptures, relief carvings, and other archaeological findings unearthed from the My Son complex and surrounding areas.
The museum also offers detailed explanations of the unique and somewhat ingenious construction techniques employed by the Cham builders.
Don’t expect too much - it’s small, but well-curated and provides enough information before heading into the greater site.
CHAM FOLK ART PERFORMANCE
Depending on the time of your visit, you might be able to catch traditional Cham dance performances. These performances tell the stories of Cham culture and history through dance, music and colourful costumes and are worth a visit.
15-minute performances are held Monday - Sunday, across the following hours: 10 am, 10:45 am, 2 pm, and 3:30 pm.
THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING MY SON SANCTUARY
TICKET PRICE AND OPENING TIMES
The entrance fee at the time of writing (May 2024) for My Son Sanctuary is 150,000 VND for adults and 30,000 VND for children aged 5 - 15. Younger kids enter for free.
My Son Sanctuary is open daily, from 6 am to 5 pm.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT MY SON SANCTUARY?
Like any outdoor historical attraction, a visit to My Son Sanctuary is greatly influenced by weather and timing. Arrive in the wet season, and you’ll spend a miserable two hours seeing the ruins. Arrive at Midday during the dry season, and you’ll be dreaming of your hotel pool the whole time.
The best time of year to visit My Son is during the dry season (February - April), when the weather is dry with less humidity, making it more comfortable to explore the ruins.
Around this time, the temperatures are moderate, and there's less likelihood of rain interrupting your visit. June and July can be decent times to visit but expect high heat and humidity.
Regardless of what time of year you visit, arriving early morning is ideal. Not only do you beat the heat and humidity of the midday, but you also avoid the tour groups that tend to arrive later (10 am).
The early morning light provides a magical and serene ambience, perfect for photography and a more comfortable exploration.
MY SON SANCTUARY WITH KIDS
If, like we were, you’re travelling in Vietnam with humans of the small variety, we found the whole My Son complex set up well for visiting with kids.
Each temple group is connected by wide paths (especially great for travel prams!) and the whole complex is well marked and easily navigable - although of course, our toddler preferred running around on their own steam exploring, in classic independent toddler fashion!
There are stalls selling drinks and food onsite too, so no need to worry about hungry bellies.
ADDITIONAL MY SON SANCTUARY TIPS
DRESS APPROPRIATELY | Unlike other SE Asian temples, there are no dress requirements here. However, respect local customs and cover up those knees and shoulders. In addition, we suggest wearing comfortable shoes and taking a raincoat just in case. The site requires a fair amount of walking
STAY HYDRATED, DON’T BUY BOTTLED WATER | It gets hot here, so make sure you bring plenty amounts of water. But please, for the love of the ocean: DO NOT BUY SINGLE-USE PLASTIC BOTTLES! You'll understand why when you see a bunch of plastic bottles bob past you in the open sea. Buy one of these fantastic bottles instead
BRING YOUR CAMERA | 800 years of history deserves a few photos. Plus, it’s an absolutely gorgeous place to photograph, especially during cloudy days
HIRE A GUIDE | Consider hiring a local guide to enrich your understanding of the site's history and significance, while supporting the local economy
LEAVE NO TRACE | To keep My Son Sanctuary clean, limit your consumption of plastic, and opt for sustainable / zero-waste alternatives instead. Pack a reusable water bottle, bring your reusable coffee cup, and if you can’t sip your cocktails without a straw, bring a metal or bamboo one along instead. And never leave a trace... Oh, and pick up any rubbish you see
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN VIETNAM
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CAR INSURANCE | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF VIETNAM
HOI AN | The best things to do in Hoi An, How to get from Danang Airport to Hoi An
HO CHI MINH CITY | The best things to do in Ho Chi Minh City, What to know before visiting Ho Chi Minh City, How to visit Tan Dinh Church (Saigon’s Pink Church), Where to eat and drink in Ho Chi Minh City
HANOI | The best things to do in Hanoi, How to visit the Temple of Literature
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RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and your friends travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
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