Glacier Treks & Epic Hikes: 7 Things to do in the Montafon Valley, Vorarlberg
The Montafon Valley is one of Austria’s alpine hidden gems, full of world-class hiking, epic via ferratas and awe-inspiring glacier treks - plus plenty of tradition, culture, and hospitality too. Here are seven of our favourite things to do in Montafon!
I remember the conversation vividly: a glass of red in one hand and a thick blanket over my lap, on another frigid February lockdown evening in Budapest, I’d turned to Mark and said, "I desperately miss the mountains".
He agreed. For the rest of the night, we'd talked about our favourite mountains and all the adventures we were longing to enjoy once more.
Many of those memories centred on our many trips to Vorarlberg; that time we hiked the Kanisfluh at sunrise, or when Mark got stuck in a metre of snow on our first snowshoeing hike and we'd laughed so hard we couldn't retrieve him for ages. We dreamt of cosy mountain huts, and buckets full of gluttonous käsespätzle, and wild landscapes full of silent forests and dramatic peaks.
The decision was made then and there: we were going back to our favourite mountains the minute it was possible to do so.
Which is exactly how we found ourselves back in Vorarlberg this summer, this time exploring the little-known Montafon region nestled against the Swiss border.
Where Vorarlberg still remains largely (and wonderfully) off the radar — its location in the far west of the country means that even many Austrians simply don't drive that far to get their mountain fix — the Montafon is its true hidden gem.
A deep valley framed by some of Vorarlberg's highest peaks, Montafon’s pretty landscape, now dotted with idyllic alpine villages, was shaped by glaciers millennia ago.
This is the poetic valley full of glacial lakes, pretty meadows and soaring summits that Hemingway fell in love with over two winters, and where some of his most famous words were penned.
It's peaceful and full of tradition and culture. But don't be fooled: there's more than enough adventure to be found here too, with everything from ski fields and epic hikes to more spine-tingling exploits like via ferratas and glacier hikes.
Discover some of our favourite things to do in Montafon valley, including our recommendations for where to stay and how to get there too.
THE BEST OF MONTAFON
#1 Silvretta Glacier Hike
#2 Röbischlucht via Ferrata
#3 Hike to Muttjöchle
#4 Explore pretty Schruns
#5 Forest yoga in Gargellen
#6 Wellness and relaxation at Amrai Suites
#7 Drive the Silvretta High Alpine Road
7 FUN THINGS TO DO IN MONTAFON, AUSTRIA
WHERE IS THE MONTAFON VALLEY?
The Montafon valley is in Austria's most southwestern pocket, tucked against the border with Switzerland.
It's home to one of Austria's largest ski resorts (Silvretta Montafon), as well as Vorarlberg's highest mountain: Piz Buin.
HOW TO GET TO THE MONTAFON VALLEY
The region is extremely well connected by land transport, which is always our preference for travel.
Regular train services operate between Schruns (and the other towns in Montafon) and major hubs in Austria, Switzerland, Germany, and the same goes for bus routes as well.
If you have no option but to fly, Innsbruck is 1.5 hours drive from Schruns, while Munich is 2.5 hours drive.
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN MONTAFON
#1 TACKLE A GLACIER HIKE IN THE SILVRETTA
Mountain hikes and via ferrata courses are amazing... but have you ever taken a walk on an ancient glacier?
Montafon's Vermunt Glacier that spills across the pass separating Austria from Switzerland might be little-known to many travellers to the region, but it's a stunning and totally unique experience to add to your Montafon itinerary.
We also don’t need to point out that in the 21st century, visiting a glacier is also an opportunity that is, devastatingly, slipping away from us as the planet grows ever warmer.
Your hike begins a few hours below the glacier at the milky-turquoise Silvrettasee - a glacier-fed dam that powers much of the local region — and continues through an idyllic wild landscape with endless views over the surrounding peaks (including Piz Buin, the tallest in Vorarlberg!).
The hike is beautiful in its own right, especially as you leave the Silvretta dam behind and weave higher up along the mountainside. It's a fairly gentle hike initially but does rise steeply to the Wiesbadenerhütte, where you'll be glad for a cold beer or a hearty hot soup (or both!). Note: the Wiesbadenerhütte is cash only!
With the glacier in sight from the hut's sunny terrace, this is where sad reality often sets in: 50 years ago, the glacier reached the Wiesbadener Hut. Since then, it's retreated a few hundred metres. These days, it's about an hour's further hike from the hut to the edge of the glacier, where the real fun begins.
Once you’ve finally reached the glacier and strapped your crampons to your hiking boots, it's time to get roped up and used to walking on ice! Thankfully there aren't many crevasses to really be concerned with here, but it does take a little bit of time to get used to the long rolling footsteps required to easily walk on the ice and snow.
As you slowly trek higher towards the Vermunt pass (keep an eye out for the emergency shelter there once used by the Nazis to prevent people fleeing to the safety of Switzerland!), it's hard not to be in awe of your surroundings; a magical frozen world framed by ancient giants, with views all the way back down the valley to the shimmering Silvrettasee.
Once you've had your fill, you'll leave the glacier and head back down the way you came in. It's a long day and incredibly taxing on the legs, but absolutely worth it.
THE DETAILS
Where | Trail begins at Silvrettasee
Cost | €20 per person
What to wear | Warm, wind/waterproof clothing and boots - and gloves if you have them!
Equipment | Crampons and safety gear provided by your guide
Tips | Bring cash for lunch at the Wiesbadenerhütte
BOOK | Tours can be booked on the Montafon website
READ MORE | A Visit to a Disappearing World: The Vermunt Glacier in Silvretta
#2 CLIMB TO NEW HEIGHTS ON THE RÖBISCHLUCHT VIA FERRATA
For those who pair their travels with a sense of adventure and a decent head for heights, a via ferrata course can be an amazing way to explore the mountains and gain access to some of their more remote areas too.
These series of iron ladders ('iron roads' so to speak) were first forged on the mountainsides of Dachstein (Austria) in the 1840s, where the iron hooks and footholds allowed locals easier, speedier access through tricky mountain ranges to their higher pastures.
These days, they criss-cross all over Europe's alpine regions, providing access for adventure seekers who want to take their mountain hikes to a whole new level.
One of these courses is the Röbischlucht Via Ferrata (technically Klettersteig in German) in the pretty Gargellen valley, a guided route that snakes along the Röbischlucht ravine as the river thunders below. The course eventually deposits you at the base of a waterfall, where a climb up the sheer neighbouring rock-face awaits. It's a powerful combination of nature's might, adrenalin-pumping activity and epic sightseeing.
The tour starts with a safety briefing at the Gargellen Valley station and takes about 1-1.5hours (depending on your group’s size and how quickly it moves!). It begins with a short hike along the river, with a few opportunities to clip in and out and practise on solid ground before the course itself starts.
It is technically graded as a children’s/beginner’s climb, and while it’s significantly easier to do than it looks (we managed it easily!) we’d recommend a good level of mobility and fitness - and a reasonable head for heights, of course!
Our via ferrata experience is pretty limited; we've only done this course and one other in the Dolomites — but they're quickly becoming our fave way to explore the mountains!
THE DETAILS
Where | Robischlucht Klettersteig
Experience | B/C graded course, no prior experience necessary
Required gear | climbing gear + guide included. Wear closed shoes and warm clothes!
Cost | €35
#3 EXPLORE KRISTBERG & HIKE TO THE MUTTJÖCHLE
Hiking to the Muttjöchle was never meant to be part of our Montafon itinerary, but when a strained quad muscle (Mark) meant a last minute switch from our planned Itonskopf hike to something more accessible for him, we found ourselves trundling up the Kristberg cablecar in Silbertal instead.
It was a gloriously sunny early Autumn morning when we reached the plateau where the cablecar stopped. The plan was to follow the Kristberg panorama trail, a gentle 2-hour trail on the so-called 'balcony of the Montafon', but it turns out that a pulled leg muscle and a gentle stroll still don't make for an ideal match.
So while Mark limped off for a lunch of potato pancakes and beer on the sun-drenched terrace of the Kristberg Panoramagasthof (I'm still jealous!), I hesitantly ventured off for my first ever solo hike to the Muttjöchle summit.
I couldn't have picked a more beautiful place for my first venture into the wilderness alone.
From the Kristbergbahn, the trail ascends up through a thick, peaceful mountain forest for about an hour and a half, with vantage points every so often to take a sneak peek at the surrounding landscapes.
Eventually, the path opens out onto a wide boulder-strewn plateau carpeted with crimson wild blueberry bushes, with the enormous peaks of the Silvretta, Verwall, Rätikon, and distant Lechtal Alps surrounding you from all sides.
From here, it's another 45-60 minutes to the summit cross, and while it definitely feels like a StairMaster workout in the final section, the views from the summit make for some of the best in the whole Vorarlberg region. It's the perfect spot to slow down and enjoy your lunch with breathtaking views.
Once you're done, it's a simple retracing of the steps back down to the Kristbergbahn and the chairlift back to Silbertal (see the Kristberg timetable here).
All up, the hike takes about 5-6 hours round trip, and requires a decent level of mobility and fitness as much of the ascent is over rocky, uneven terrain.
If you're looking to challenge yourself and add some extra kms to your trek, you can also do this hike from the Sonnenkopfbahn, up to the Muttjöchle and then down to Kristbergbahn, or in reverse from Kristbergbahn to Muttjöchle and Sonnenkopfbahn - or even down to Silbertal if you're really wanting to stretch your legs!
THE DETAILS
Where | The Muttjöchle
Start & end | Kristbergbahn (Kristberg cable station)
Fitness | You'll need a moderate level of fitness for this one - the way to the Mutjöchle
Time & distance | 5-6 hours round trip / 15km
More info | Find the hike details here
#4 TAKE A STROLL AROUND THE TOWN OF SCHRUNS
It's the small traditional mountain town Ernest Hemingway spent two 1920s winters, skiing, drinking, and penning some of his most famous works (including The Sun Also Rises).
Pretty Schruns, set in the shadow of the Silvretta Group of mountains and with the bubbling Litz river coursing through its heart, is definitely a town worth lingering in — if only for a couple of hours instead of months.
Its narrow streets are lined with centuries-old frescoed facades, pine chalets adorned with colourful flowers, and cosy restaurants where a hearty meal and jovial atmosphere can always be found.
If you're exploring the Montafon region, chances are you're planning to base yourself in Schruns already (we recommend Amrai Suites for accommodation if you are!), but if not - stop by for lunch and a wander through the cute traditional streets.
THE DETAILS
Where | Schruns
#5 DO FOREST YOGA IN GARGELLEN
Forests have held a mythical status for humans for centuries; they're the settings of our fairytales (both good and bad), a source of our food, and in more modern times: the place we seek when we're craving calm from the pressures of daily life.
In Japan, the practice of shinrin-yoku or 'forest-bathing' — time spent quietly amongst the trees — has long been considered a vital wellbeing practice, while modern researchers have found that spending time in nature boosts our immune system, reduces cortisol (the stress hormone) and lowers heart rate and blood pressure.
Here in Montafon, where ancient forest lies thick on the ever-present mountains, you can take the experience of forest bathing to an even more enlightened, meditative level by adding a forest yoga class to the mix.
Head to the little mountain town of Gargellen, the highest in the Montafon region, for one of the most memorable yoga classes you'll ever have. Surrounded by lush green meadows and calm forest, with the sounds of birds and the gushing river as your soundtrack, this 2-hour guided class of stretching, yoga poses and meditation provides a sensory connection guaranteed to bring some inner peace and balance to a new day.
The session begins with a short hike up to a mountain meadow — although disclaimer: the day we took the class, some cows with healthy digestive systems had left a few too many calling cards behind which meant we relocated to a small grassy space near town, but it was still equally peaceful and immersive! — before settling in to stretch, pose, and meditate. You'll then hike back to Gargellen together after the class.
The class is totally suitable for beginners, although furry friends need to be left behind for this one!
THE DETAILS
Where | Gargellen
Cost | €20 per person
Duration | 2 hours
#6 STAY AT AMRAI SUITES, SCHRUNS
Tucked along the banks of the River Litz in Schruns, Amrai Suites is an absolute dream stay — and we don't say that lightly.
We've seen some wonderful hotels in our 6+ years of travel blogging, and the architecturally-designed Amrai Suites is in our top 5 for sure. A modern take on a classic alpine chalet, it’s all about light pine wood interiors furnished with natural materials and colours, an insanely luxurious and thoughtful wellness area, and genuine mountain hospitality that’s at a whole new level.
The hotel's kitchen is focused on bringing together fresh, local ingredients sourced from small-scale suppliers to reinvent classic dishes, and we were treated to a drool-worthy 4-5 course feast each night, while the breakfast buffet was a truly sumptuous affair.
We were upgraded to one of their larger suites during our stay, and the apartment was bigger than our whole flat back in Budapest, super elegant and comfortable (that bed, omg), and no detail had been neglected — including the cleverly designed, fully-equipped fold out kitchen area!
Oh, and we also had our own steam shower and a sauna in the apartment too When I tell you we never wanted to leave.... well, we truly never wanted to leave.
THE DETAILS
Where | Amrai Suites, Schruns
BOOK | AMRAI SUITES
#7 DRIVE THE SILVRETTA HOCHALPENSTRASSE HIGH ALPINE ROAD
One of the most famous and most beautiful panoramic roads in the Alps, the Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse High Alpine Road is a must-do on your visit to the Montafon region, especially for those enjoying van life in Austria.
34 hairpin turns, 22 kilometres and 2,000m elevation make up this alpine pass connecting the Montafon valley with the Paznauntal valley in neighbouring Tyrol. With rugged mountains all around, navigating each bend is a truly breathtaking experience. It’s little wonder it’s so popular with motorists, cyclists, and motorcyclists alike!
At the top of the pass, you’ll reach a high plateau that opens out into the Silvretta reservoir (also the starting point for the glacier hike mentioned above!), and with views over the Vermunt Glacier too.
Do note that the pass is only open in summer, and there is a toll to drive over it.
THE DETAILS
Where | Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse
Toll | €16.50 - car up to 9, €13.50 - motorbikes
WHERE TO EAT IN THE MONTAFON VALLEY
As with most alpine areas in Europe, the emphasis on food in Montafon and the wider Vorarlberg region focuses on local, seasonal, and high-quality ingredients combined to create hearty traditional mountain foods. You won’t find much beyond traditional cuisine here, but we do promise it’s all delicious!
Here are some of our favourite meals and places to eat in Montafon:
GASTHOF LÖWEN, TSCHAGGUNS
This beautiful traditional restaurant is in Tschagguns, about a 10-minute walk from Schruns. For more than 500 years, the family-owned Gasthof Löwen (Lion) has been at the heart of town life here, so it’s pretty special to sit in a restaurant where so many human stories have played out before you.
We opted for a veggie mountain soup and the spinach schlutzkrapfen, both super tasty!
VERMALA, ST GALLENKIRCH
Tucked in the little town of St Gallenkirch, Vermala is a cosy alpine restaurant (and guesthouse) serving up traditional dishes sourced from local suppliers. Service is friendly, portions are huge (as to be expected in the mountains!), and the vibe is warm and homey.
We had the traditional Käsespaetzle made with Sura kees, a local Montafon grey cheese amongst the oldest cheesemaking traditions in the whole region.
AMRAI SUITES, SCHRUNS
We stayed at beautiful Amrai Suites and ate in their restaurant two nights, so we can definitely vouch for their food! The restaurant combines the traditional and contemporary in every way, from the cool interiors to the reinvented classic Montafon dishes.
The menu changes daily with 4-5 courses each night, and it is, objectively, bloody delicious. Book ahead so you don’t miss out
KRISTBERG PANORAMAGASTHOF
A quick cable car ride from Silbertal to Kristberg will drop you just a few minutes walk from the Kristberg Panoramagasthof, as jovial and welcoming as any alpine hut can be, with a large panoramic terrace overlooking the epic mountains beyond.
Make the day trip just to have lunch or pause here in the midst of a day hike — and make sure you order the potato rosti!
WHERE TO STAY IN THE MONTAFON VALLEY
AMRAI SUITES, SCHRUNS
We stayed at Amrai Suites for all 4 nights of our visit to Montafon, and it was an absolute dream. Everything from the spacious, uber comfy rooms and warm, welcoming service to the luxurious spa area and gourmet delights of their on-site restaurant was just perfect.
It is a bit of a splurge, but believe us when we say we debated extending our stay for another few days just to soak up all the goodness.
BOOK | AMRAI SUITES
ASTORIA APARTMENTS, SCHRUNS
Right in the heart of Schruns-Tschagguns, Astoria Apartments is a great option for those looking to keep their costs down or have a little more flexibility when it comes to meals etc.
These one-bed self-contained apartments have a fully-equipped kitchenette, comfy bedroom and living area, and your own terrace too.
BOOK | ASTORIA APARTMENTS
INSURANCE FOR AUSTRIA
If you can't afford travel insurance, you really can't afford to travel. As the current global situation has taught many people, things can go wrong anywhere in the world - and insurance is often the only way of mitigating any issues with minimal expense or stress for you.
For all travellers | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out of pocket fees. *Get 5% off your policy by booking through our link here.
For digital nomads | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.
Car Insurance | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
*In normal times, we recommend using World Nomads travel insurance, but unfortunately they're not currently covering COVID-19 related claims right now.
EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF VORARLBERG
WHEN THE WORLD TURNED WHITE | Snowshoeing through the winter wonderland of Vorarlberg, Austria, and the time we learnt to ski in Vorarlberg, plus hiking the Vermunt Glacier in Austria’s Montafon region
SUMMER IN VORARLBERG | The stunning beauty of Austria’s Vorarlberg region in photos, and our sunrise hike to the Kanisfluh summit
HIKES, WELLNESS, AND FOOD | 10 of the best things to do in Vorarlberg during summer
EUROPE DREAMING | Discover more European adventures with our travel guides and tips
PHOTOGRAPHY | Wondering what gear we use to get all of our photos around the world? Click here to view our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is really important. Read our top responsible travel tips to help you travel better and more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
EXPLORE MORE OF AUSTRIA WITH OUR USEFUL GUIDES
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That, and you're officially a legend.
