Truffle Hunting in Tuscany: Discovering Italy’s Most Popular Fungi
Discover the world of truffle hunting in Tuscany, Italy, including the ins and outs of this seasonal activity, from what to expect on a truffle hunting tour, to the best time of year to go truffle hunting.
I look up to fungi for my relationship goals.
Truffles and tree roots live happily together in a symbiotic relationship, an equal give and take from one to the other. The tree gives the truffle the food it needs to be happy, and in return, the truffle helps enrich the soil so the tree can be happy. It’s an equal partnership.
Truffles have really popped off in the past decade, you’ve probably had knock-off truffle oil of some sort splashed on potato chips or french fries. Maybe you’ve been lucky enough to have fresh truffles shaved on top of pasta.
The following is a breakdown of what truffles are, why they’re so popular, and the four-legged friends that help us find them.
Meet Gina, she’s a 2-year-old Lagotto Romagnolo pup who lives in Mugello, Italy. Her keen sense of smell makes her the perfect companion to Mauro, a truffle hunter.
Together they trek into the Tuscan countryside searching for truffles. On one misty November Saturday, I (and seven other travellers) joined them.
There are dozens of tour companies in the Tuscan region that offer truffle hunts. The tour I booked included a truffle hunt followed by a homemade lunch with the family-owned company Mugello & Tuscany.
Truffles are a kind of fungi, a distant cousin to mushrooms. They’re dense and round and like to live beneath the ground among tree roots.
Their strong, earthy smell and taste make them an incredible topping on pastas and risottos - but as I learned, you should never cook a truffle, they are absolutely perfect right out of the dirt and are in their peak freshness only days after being harvested.
They can be found all over the world – the Pacific Northwest of the United States, France, Australia, the United Kingdom, and of course, Italy.
These marbled fungi have been used in cuisine for thousands of years and are notoriously difficult to cultivate on a farm. Truffles are high maintenance and require the perfect combination of weather, soil, and honestly, luck. So with that said, they thrive in natural forests.
The finicky growing conditions, a short window of freshness, and high demand in the culinary world naturally give truffles a steep price tag.
Just half a kilogram can range from hundreds to tens of thousands of dollars depending on the variety.
Singular truffles are typically small and are gathered when they’re the size of a chestnut or tangerine, but every once in a while a lucky harvester can find a big one. In 2021 a monster one-kilogram white truffle was discovered in Tuscany and sold at auction for $118,000.
People take their truffle auctions very seriously.
On our truffle hunt, we learned about the varieties we would be looking for – black being the more common variety, and white being the more rare and prized truffle in this Tuscan region.
Minutes into our walk Gina was already on the move and locked onto a scent.
She darted ahead of the group and began digging beneath the hazelnut trees. Mauro quickly met her, rewarded her with a treat, and assisted her in digging with his small hand shovel. A cream-coloured mound in the dirt appeared and voilà, our first white truffle.
Dogs are great truffle-hunting companions. Pigs are not.
Truffle pigs are still used to help forage in places like France, but they’re not as easily trained as dogs are. Pigs love the taste of truffles just as much as humans do, so when they’re locked onto the scent of one it’s difficult to control them from not eating it. It’s also easier to control a 35-pound dog than a 400-pound pig.
An Italian law in 1985 prohibited the use of pigs for truffle hunting.
On our walk, Gina did sneak in a few small truffles as a snack, but they were the size of a grain of rice.
Plus, she deserved it.
Around noon we finished our truffle hunt with an impressive yield. Typically the Mugello & Tuscany group tours find around 30 grams of white truffle, today we had close to 80 grams.
Cha-ching.
White truffles are rare, and just our small bag was worth about $250.
After the hunt, we all met inside a hall where a local chef from the community helped prepare our lunch. We all took turns practising our pasta-making skills, enjoying the crackling fire, and sipping on local wines.
On the menu were gnocchi, tortelli, and tagliatelle in a simple butter sauce, all topped with the freshly harvested white truffle found just hours before.
A beautiful autumn Saturday spent in vibrant Tuscan nature capped with a delicious meal.
Un giorno perfetto, a perfect day.
Ciao.
THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE TRUFFLE HUNTING IN TUSCANY
Before truffle hunting in Tuscany, there are several things you need to know.
Truffle hunting is a seasonal activity that is only possible during the white truffle season, typically from late September to December (see below).
You'll need a licensed truffle hunter to guide you through the process, as it's not something you can do on your own - plus, your guide will provide all the insights and information you’ll ever need, and it makes the whole experience more enjoyable. Guides can be booked through the link below, or via a tour from Florence which you can book here.
When dressing for truffle hunting, it's important to wear comfortable, sturdy shoes and clothes that can handle a little dirt, plus many layers to handle the cooler autumnal temperatures.
For bookings, or further information, we suggest getting in touch with the tour company below:
WHERE | Mugello, Tuscany
EMAIL & PHONE | info@mugello-tuscany.com, +39 3312067654
COST | €160,00 per person (September to December)
Alternatively, book this popular truffle hunting expedition from Florence here.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO GO TRUFFLE HUNTING IN TUSCANY?
The best time to go truffle hunting in Tuscany, Italy is from late September to December.
This is the period when the white truffle season is in full swing, and it's the perfect time to experience the thrill of hunting for this prized delicacy.
That being said, truffle availability can vary depending on weather conditions and other factors, so we suggest checking with local experts for the most up-to-date information on the best time to go truffle hunting in Tuscany.
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EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF ITALY
Check out these essential posts to help you have the best trip ever:
BEST OF FLORENCE + TUSCANY | The best things to do in Florence, Where to stay in Florence, How to visit Pienza, The best things to do in San Gimignano
BEST OF BOLOGNA | 12 incredibly awesome things to do in Bologna, Italy, Where to stay in Bologna, Our guide to the Asinelli Tower, Bologna Travel Tips, Best Bologna day tours, Hiking the Via Matildica in Italy’s Emilia Romagna
DOZZA | A guide to Italy’s most colourful hill town, Dozza
DOLOMITES | Our 7-day road trip itinerary for the Dolomites, where to stay in the Dolomites, how to get to the Dolomites, 7 of the best day hikes in the Dolomites, including the famous Tre Cime De Lavaredo loop, Lago di Sorapis, our guide to Lago di Braies
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Read our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and your friends travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO ITALY WITH THESE POSTS!
Article written by Cami Buckman: Cami is an American journalist based in Los Angeles, California. She loves writing and producing videos about the intersections of food, history, and culture. When she's not working, you can find her practising her homemade pizza recipe.
Follow Cami everywhere at @camibuckman
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